diff --git a/_public/ghost-sdk.min.js b/_public/ghost-sdk.min.js index a11757a..9eff80c 100644 --- a/_public/ghost-sdk.min.js +++ b/_public/ghost-sdk.min.js @@ -1 +1,44 @@ -!function(){var o,i,n,e,r="http://localhost:8080/ghost/api/v0.1/";n={api:function(){var n,e=Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments),t=r;return(n=e.pop())&&"object"!=typeof n&&(e.push(n),n={}),(n=n||{}).client_id=o,n.client_secret=i,e.length&&e.forEach(function(n){t+=n.replace(/^\/|\/$/g,"")+"/"}),t+function(n){var e,t=[];if(!n)return"";for(e in n)n.hasOwnProperty(e)&&(n[e]||!1===n[e])&&t.push(e+"="+encodeURIComponent(n[e]));return t.length?"?"+t.join("&"):""}(n)}},e=function(n){o=n.clientId?n.clientId:"",i=n.clientSecret?n.clientSecret:"",r=n.url?n.url:r.match(/{\{api-url}}/)?"":r},"undefined"!=typeof window&&(window.ghost=window.ghost||{},window.ghost.url=n,window.ghost.init=e),"undefined"!=typeof module&&(module.exports={url:n,init:e})}(); \ No newline at end of file +!(function () { + var o, + i, + n, + e, + r = "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/ghost/api/v0.1/"; + (n = { + api: function () { + var n, + e = Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments), + t = r; + return ( + (n = e.pop()) && "object" != typeof n && (e.push(n), (n = {})), + ((n = n || {}).client_id = o), + (n.client_secret = i), + e.length && + e.forEach(function (n) { + t += n.replace(/^\/|\/$/g, "") + "/"; + }), + t + + (function (n) { + var e, + t = []; + if (!n) return ""; + for (e in n) + n.hasOwnProperty(e) && + (n[e] || !1 === n[e]) && + t.push(e + "=" + encodeURIComponent(n[e])); + return t.length ? "?" + t.join("&") : ""; + })(n) + ); + }, + }), + (e = function (n) { + (o = n.clientId ? n.clientId : ""), + (i = n.clientSecret ? n.clientSecret : ""), + (r = n.url ? n.url : r.match(/{\{api-url}}/) ? "" : r); + }), + "undefined" != typeof window && + ((window.ghost = window.ghost || {}), + (window.ghost.url = n), + (window.ghost.init = e)), + "undefined" != typeof module && (module.exports = { url: n, init: e }); +})(); diff --git a/author/anson/index.html b/author/anson/index.html index 5193b9f..4911456 100644 --- a/author/anson/index.html +++ b/author/anson/index.html @@ -1,769 +1,1412 @@ - - - -Anson Biggs - Anson 3D - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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-Anson Biggs -

Anson Biggs

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I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus + on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at + Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. +

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+ Arizona • +
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This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/biggest-rules-of-modeling-in-fusion-360/index.html b/biggest-rules-of-modeling-in-fusion-360/index.html index 4495c4a..7bc952e 100644 --- a/biggest-rules-of-modeling-in-fusion-360/index.html +++ b/biggest-rules-of-modeling-in-fusion-360/index.html @@ -1,463 +1,881 @@ - - - -Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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-

Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + Guide +
+

+ Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360 +

+
+
+ Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360 -
-
-
-

I recently had my friend create a model for me to 3D print and it became immediately clear that while Fusion 360 is widely available, it is not as beginner friendly as most people online make it seem. This guide aims to highlight a few things that are not as straightforward, or even really mentioned at all in the Fusion interface.

-
-

Change Z-Axis to up

-

zUP

-

For some odd reason, Fusion defaults to Y-Up, every other program uses Z-Up so if you ever import anything to another program it is going to be sideways. Change this when you get started and save yourself some headache later.

-
-

Always start with a new component

-

createComponent-1

-

In a quick 5-minute project you can probably get away with just doing an entire project without making a component, but for anything larger making a component will make your life much easier. Keeping the timeline clean is extremely advantageous for multiple reasons. Mainly it allows you to easily go back in time and make changes to each part, instead of scrolling through a massive timeline that's full of every modifier that you've used.

-

Fusion can be is buggy. The most common issue I come across is when a Modifier doesn't want to update or editing it makes everything after it break. While these issues still occur when your project is broken into components, it is much easier to manage when it does. Most of the time you just have to scrub back in the timeline to where you made a feature and do the feature over again from scratch. For some modifiers, this isn't an issue in the slightest, but sometimes you have a mirror with 15 features selected and it can be a pain to find them all when your timeline is massive.

-
-

Parameters are vital in large projects

-

Parameters

-

Parameters are like writing comments in Code. In my opinion, there is nothing worse than having to go through an old model trying to make a simple change when you must search for where that change is defined, or even worse if the value is used multiple times so you have to go hunting for it. Parameters make life easier for current you, future you, and any other poor soul that might have to modify your file. You can also leave comments on parameters for added brownie points with future you.

-
-

Utilize the Browser and hide Unnecessary Items

-

browserTree-1

-

This one is basic; the Browser hides a ton of functionality in it and most of the time it is easier to keep anything that isn't necessary for what you're doing at the moment hidden. If you still have a mess of lines and faces on your screen long pressing the left mouse button can be a tremendous help. It is also good to note that you can unhide old sketches to use them again.

-
-

Offset Planes and the Loft Tool

-

loftAndOffsetPlanes

-

In parametric modeling, it's easy to get stuck in the mindset of just wanting to start everything as cubes and cut them down to the shape you want, but the loft tool wants to do this work for you. You can create two sketches with the geometry you need, have one sketch use the default plane (or define a plane however you want), then the other on an offset plane, click both profiles with the loft tool open and you're off to the races. This is the closest that Fusion will probably ever get to the amazing Generative Design Tools that CATIA has, but this pretty much gets you where you need to go.

-
-

McMaster-Carr Integration is awesome

-

mcMasterCarrImport

-

This integration completely takes the guesswork out of making holes for nuts, bolts, or one of the literally thousands of modeled parts. I generally import .step models and they look great, import with the part number as the item name, and are dimensionally correct. This takes literally all the guesswork out of working with these kinds of components

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360
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Share this - - -
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+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
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+ Read More +
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+ Biggest Rules of Modeling in Fusion 360 +
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+ - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/create-a-backup-of-your-chocolatey-packages-using-boxstarter/index.html b/create-a-backup-of-your-chocolatey-packages-using-boxstarter/index.html index b075c22..5c5ff9c 100644 --- a/create-a-backup-of-your-chocolatey-packages-using-boxstarter/index.html +++ b/create-a-backup-of-your-chocolatey-packages-using-boxstarter/index.html @@ -1,187 +1,361 @@ - - - -Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter - - - - - - - - - - - + + Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
-
-
- -
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-
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-
- -/ Code -
-

Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter

-
-
-
-

Introduction

-

Chocolatey is command line package manager for Windows that gives you a very Linux -esque software installation experience. This guide expects that you already are using Chocolatey, but in case you need convincing here's what makes it so awesome, for example: choco install google chrome will install Google Chrome on your computer without having to wait for the installer. You can even get fancy and list as many packages as you would like with a -y flag to automatically accept any prompts: choco install -y autohotkey.portable python3 gimp Can't undersell how easy this makes to set a computer up for the first time.

-

Boxstarter uses Chocolatey packages but adds a few extra tools that allow you to install software faster and make changes to Windows settings. Boxstarter has some amazing functionality that I am not going to touch on here, but I would recommend Checking out their Docs.

-

Prerequisites to make a Backup

- -

The Process

-

1. Get a list of your Chocolatey Packages

-

Open Powershell and enter clist -l and copy the output into a file called data.txt Alternatively, clist -l > data.txt will automatically make a data.txt file in whatever directory Powershell is in.

-

2. Make a Python File with the following code:

-
import re
+  
+    

+      

+        

+          
+        

+      

+      

+        

+          

+            

+              

+                
+                /
+                Code
+              

+              

+                Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter
+              

+            

+            

+              

+                
Introduction

+                

+                  Chocolatey
+                  is command line package manager for Windows that gives you a
+                  very Linux -esque software installation experience. This guide
+                  expects that you already are using Chocolatey, but in case you
+                  need convincing here's what makes it so awesome, for example:
+                  choco install google chrome will install Google
+                  Chrome on your computer without having to wait for the
+                  installer. You can even get fancy and list as many packages as
+                  you would like with a -y flag to automatically
+                  accept any prompts:
+                  choco install -y autohotkey.portable python3 gimp
+                  Can't undersell how easy this makes to set a computer up for
+                  the first time.
+                

+                

+                  Boxstarter
+                  uses Chocolatey packages but adds a few extra tools that allow
+                  you to install software faster and make changes to
+                  Windows settings. Boxstarter has some amazing functionality that I am not
+                  going to touch on here, but I would recommend
+                  Checking out their Docs.
+                

+                

+                  Prerequisites to make a Backup
+                

+                
+                
The Process

+                

+                  1. Get a list of your Chocolatey Packages
+                

+                

+                  Open Powershell and enter clist -l and copy the
+                  output into a file called data.txt Alternatively,
+                  clist -l > data.txt will automatically make a
+                  data.txt file in whatever directory Powershell is
+                  in.
+                

+                

+                  2. Make a Python File with the following code:
+                

+                
import re
 
 ## Regex to get package names
 regex = re.compile("(?:^|\\n)(\\S{1,})")
@@ -196,291 +370,496 @@ with open("data.txt", "r") as f:
         for match in matchArray:
             output.write("cinst " + match + "\n")
 

-
Then making sure data.txt is in the same folder, run the script. You should get boxstarterScript.txt as an output.

-
3. Add any Extra Commands

-
The code will output a file with a ton of lines that just say cinst python3 which will work perfectly fine by itself but we can leverage Boxstarter to do a few other cool things. I personally add the code below to the top of my Script. It enables a few Windows File Explorer, I think the flags are pretty self-explanatory, but if you want more details or want to see more flags check out the Boxstarter docs

-
Set-WindowsExplorerOptions -EnableShowHiddenFilesFoldersDrives -EnableShowProtectedOSFiles -EnableShowFileExtensions
+                

+                  Then making sure data.txt is in the same folder, run the
+                  script. You should get boxstarterScript.txt as an
+                  output.
+                

+                
3. Add any Extra Commands

+                

+                  The code will output a file with a ton of lines that just say
+                  cinst python3 which will work perfectly fine by
+                  itself but we can leverage Boxstarter to do a few other cool
+                  things. I personally add the code below to the top of my
+                  Script. It enables a few Windows File Explorer, I think the
+                  flags are pretty self-explanatory, but if you want more
+                  details or want to see more flags check out the
+                  Boxstarter docs
+                

+                
Set-WindowsExplorerOptions -EnableShowHiddenFilesFoldersDrives -EnableShowProtectedOSFiles -EnableShowFileExtensions
 Enable-RemoteDesktop
 

-
and at the end of the file, I add a command that forces windows to update.

-
Install-WindowsUpdate -AcceptEula
+                

+                  and at the end of the file, I add a command that forces
+                  windows to update.
+                

+                
Install-WindowsUpdate -AcceptEula
 

-
4. Using the Script.

-
Obviously this script that we made doesn't do any good if it is not accessible to a new machine so paraphrasing from the Boxstarter guide I'll give a quick rundown on how to quickly use your backup using gist. If you don't want to use Github, my understanding is that any public URL that gives a raw .txt page will work, or you can use a different method to get the .txt to your machine.

-
If you don't have Boxstarter or Chocolatey installed then open Powershell and run:

-
. { iwr -useb https://boxstarter.org/bootstrapper.ps1 } | iex; get-boxstarter -Force
+                
4. Using the Script.

+                

+                  Obviously this script that we made doesn't do any good if it
+                  is not accessible to a new machine so paraphrasing from the
+                  Boxstarter guide
+                  I'll give a quick rundown on how to quickly use your backup
+                  using gist. If you don't
+                  want to use Github, my understanding is that any public URL
+                  that gives a raw .txt page will work, or you can
+                  use a different method to get the .txt to your
+                  machine.
+                

+                

+                  If you don't have Boxstarter or Chocolatey installed then open
+                  Powershell and run:
+                

+                
. { iwr -useb https://boxstarter.org/bootstrapper.ps1 } | iex; get-boxstarter -Force
 

-
Then you can run the script we made by opening the Boxstarter shell and running the Command below. Replace PATH_TO_boxstarterScript.txt with either the URL to your script. i.e. https://gist.githubusercontent.com/MisterBiggs/97e8e065f8a8d1d941a2c3377e229dad/raw/9804bbd5e3131ec9aebbff71395df9e382fbae1b/boxstarterScript.txt (Make sure you use the raw link to your gist) or C:\Users\albig\Documents\backupScript\boxstarterScript.txt

-
Install-BoxstarterPackage -PackageName PATH_TO_boxstarterScript.txt -DisableReboots
+                

+                  Then you can run the script we made by opening the Boxstarter
+                  shell and running the Command below. Replace
+                  PATH_TO_boxstarterScript.txt with either the URL
+                  to your script. i.e.
+                  https://gist.githubusercontent.com/MisterBiggs/97e8e065f8a8d1d941a2c3377e229dad/raw/9804bbd5e3131ec9aebbff71395df9e382fbae1b/boxstarterScript.txt
+                  (Make sure you use the raw link to your gist)
+                  or
+                  C:\Users\albig\Documents\backupScript\boxstarterScript.txt
+                

+                
Install-BoxstarterPackage -PackageName PATH_TO_boxstarterScript.txt -DisableReboots
 

-
Conclusion

-
In this tutorial, we were able to make a backup of all the software installed on your machine in a way that is extremely easy to replicate and automate the install of on a new machine.

-
-

-

-
-

-

-Anson Biggs
-

-
Anson Biggs

-
I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona.
-

-

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-Read More
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-—
-
Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter

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-
Share this 
-
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-
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-
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-
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-
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+              
+
+
+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + — +
+ Create a Backup of your Chocolatey Packages using Boxstarter +
+
+
+ Share this + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/hdd-pi-case-v1/index.html b/hdd-pi-case-v1/index.html index 23f2943..c76514b 100644 --- a/hdd-pi-case-v1/index.html +++ b/hdd-pi-case-v1/index.html @@ -1,483 +1,879 @@ - - - -HDD Pi Case V1 - - - - - - - - - - - + + HDD Pi Case V1 + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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- -/ 3D Modeling -
-

HDD Pi Case V1

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + 3D Modeling +
+

HDD Pi Case V1

+
+
+ HDD Pi Case V1 -
-
-
-

Summary

-

This Raspberry Pi case is designed to fit into a standard 3.5in hard drive slot. It works well with tool-less mounting systems, but I also added the ability for threaded nuts to be dropped in which work great as well and make this compatible with anything that a standard hard drive fit into.
-The nuts that I built around are the McMaster-Carr 90480a007 This cost me $8.32 for 100 nuts delivered to my door but I am sure a local hardware store would have the same thing far cheaper.

-

I Believe these nuts from Amazon will work as well.

-

Print Settings

-

Printer Brand: Creality

-

Printer: Ender 3

-

Rafts: No

-

Supports: Yes

-

Resolution: 0.40 mm

-

Infill: 15%

-

Notes

-

I have printed this part a few times and you can get away with doing no supports you just end up with some long bridges. I would advise against supports inside where the nuts go because it is nearly impossible to get those supports out correctly.

-

How I Designed This

-

This was my first project using Fusion 360, and my first project built from the ground up for 3D printing. I started by building a profile sketch or “master sketch” of an HDD with the placement of the screw holes. Then I decided to make a rough Raspberry Pi model since I plan on many 3D printed projects for the Pi it would be easier to have a digital copy.

-

To make this model I used my Rough Raspberry Pi Model that you can find here, you can also see it in the picture below.

-

Preview With Pi Installed

-

Version 2 will be worked on soon since now I have experience with 3D printing and I know that things like the long supports that require long bridges are a big no-no. I'll also probably change the positioning of the Pi to be more in the middle. Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated.

-

Download

-

Download this Model on Thingiverse

-

Check out this Project on my Gitlab

-

Check out this Project on my Blog

-

Images

-

fusionPreview2

-

preview1-1

-

preview2

-

preview3

-

preview4-1

-

preview5-1

-

preview6

-

preview7

-

preview8

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

-
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-
-Read More -
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HDD Pi Case V1
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Share this - - -
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- - + + +
+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + — +
HDD Pi Case V1
+
+
+ Share this + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
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+ +
+ + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/headset-monitor-mount/index.html b/headset-monitor-mount/index.html index 64480a3..29b6651 100644 --- a/headset-monitor-mount/index.html +++ b/headset-monitor-mount/index.html @@ -1,21 +1,32 @@ - - - -Headset Monitor Mount - - - - - - - - - - - - + + Headset Monitor Mount + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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- -/ 3D Modeling -
-

Headset Monitor Mount

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + 3D Modeling +
+

Headset Monitor Mount

+
+
+ Headset Monitor Mount -
-
-
-

Summary

-

This is a headphone mount that attaches to the top corner of your computer monitor using a 3D printed screw. It works perfectly for my current setup, an ASUS VS248H-P 24 Monitor and, Steelseries H Wireless Headset. Using the parameters option (Modify > Parameters) in Fusion 360 this design can easily be adapted to any monitor/headset combination.

-

Print Settings

-

Printer Brand: Creality

-

Printer: Ender 3

-

Rafts: No

-

Supports: Yes

-

Resolution: 0.40 mm

-

Infill: 15%, 4 Perimeter layers

-

Print Notes:

-

Print Orientation for the Mount
-The monitorHeadsetMount I printed upside down to minimize the number of supports. You still need some supports underneath the hook part but otherwise, this orientation does really well, even the threads printed perfectly on my Ender 3. Another key advantage of this orientation is it aligns the layers perpendicular to the mounting force and the force of hanging your headphones.

-

The monitorHeadsetScrew prints pretty well on either the top or bottom faces.

-

Download

-

Get this File on my Thingiverse
-Check out this Project on my GitLab

-

Pictures

-

preview1-3

-

preview2-4

-

preview3-2

-

preview4-2

-

preview5-2

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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-Read More -
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Headset Monitor Mount
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Share this - - -
- - - - - - -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- - + + +
+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + — +
Headset Monitor Mount
+
+
+ Share this + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/how-to-use-mermaid/index.html b/how-to-use-mermaid/index.html index 376e5c4..41b2981 100644 --- a/how-to-use-mermaid/index.html +++ b/how-to-use-mermaid/index.html @@ -1,206 +1,376 @@ - - - -How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
-
-
- -
-
-
-
-
-
-
- -/ Guide -
-

How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + Guide +
+

+ How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog +

+
+
+ How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog -
-
-
-

What is Mermaid?

-
-graph TD; -A-->B; -A-->C; -B-->D; -C-->D; -
-

Diagrams like the one above usually require expensive software to create and have GUIs that can be a pain to use. Mermaid fixes this with a Markdown style approach by using a simple syntax to generate beautiful diagrams, flowcharts and even GANTT Charts quickly. For example, the above flowchart was easily made with the following code.

-
graph TD;
+                            1400px"
+                src="../content/images/size/w2000/2019/01/Code_2019-01-06_03-24-26.png"
+                alt="How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog"
+              />
+
+
+
+

What is Mermaid?

+
graph TD; A-->B; A-->C; B-->D; C-->D;
+

+ Diagrams like the one above usually require expensive software + to create and have GUIs that can be a pain to use. Mermaid + fixes this with a Markdown style approach by using a simple + syntax to generate beautiful diagrams, flowcharts and even + GANTT Charts quickly. For example, the above flowchart was + easily made with the following code. +

+ 
graph TD;
     A-->B;
     A-->C;
     B-->D;
     C-->D;
-

Mermaid has a large variety of chart types and many other features that cover pretty much all the bases for any sort of diagram or chart you would want to make. The official documentation is the best resource to find out more.

-

Mermaid support in markdown editors is becoming more popular, but unfortunately, Ghost Markdown does not support this feature. Luckily, it is effortless to add to a Ghost Blog so you can get working.

-

Adding Mermaid to Ghost

-
-graph TD; -A[Open Admin Interface] --> B[Open Code Injection] -B --> C[Paste Code] -C --> D[???] -D --> Profit??? -
-

It's really as simple as the diagram makes it.

-
    -
  1. Open the ghost Admin Interface, i.e. www.yourblog.com/ghost
    2. -
  2. Open the Code Injection Tab
    3. -
  3. Paste the following code into the blog header section, making sure that the version is the most recent which can be found here
    4. -
-
    <script src="https://unpkg.com/[email protected]/dist/mermaid.min.js"></script>
+                

+                  Mermaid has a large variety of chart types and many other
+                  features that cover pretty much all the bases for any sort of
+                  diagram or chart you would want to make.
+                  The official documentation is the best resource to find
+                      out more.
+                

+                

+                  Mermaid support in markdown editors is becoming more popular,
+                  but unfortunately, Ghost Markdown does not support this
+                  feature. Luckily, it is effortless to add to a Ghost Blog so
+                  you can get working.
+                

+                
Adding Mermaid to Ghost

+                

+                  graph TD; A[Open Admin Interface] --> B[Open Code Injection] B
+                  --> C[Paste Code] C --> D[???] D --> Profit???
+                

+                
It's really as simple as the diagram makes it.

+                
    
+                  
  1. 
+                    Open the ghost Admin Interface, i.e. www.yourblog.com/ghost
+                  
    2. 
+                  
  2. Open the Code Injection Tab
    3. 
+                  
  3. 
+                    Paste the following code into the blog header section,
+                    making sure that the version is the most recent which can be
+                    found here
+                  
    4. 
+                

+                
    <script src="https://unpkg.com/[email protected]/dist/mermaid.min.js"></script>
     <script>mermaid.initialize({startOnLoad:true});</script>
 

-
Then your blog should be able to render Mermaid. Unfortunately it doesn't work natively in markdown with code blocks but using html makes it render fine like the example below.

-
<div class="mermaid">
+                

+                  Then your blog should be able to render Mermaid. Unfortunately
+                  it doesn't work natively in markdown with code blocks but
+                  using html makes it render fine like the example below.
+                

+                
<div class="mermaid">
     graph TD;
         A[Open Admin Interface] --> B[Open Code Injection]
         B --> C[Paste Code]
@@ -208,270 +378,430 @@ D --> Profit???
         D --> Profit???
 </div>
 

-
-
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

-
-
-
-Read More -
-
-
-
-
- -
- -— -
How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog
-
-
Share this - - -
- - - - - - -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- - + + + +
+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
+
+ + + + +
+ + — +
+ How to use Mermaid on your Ghost Blog +
+
+
+ Share this + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ + + + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/index.html b/index.html index 05de72a..d5d0d88 100644 --- a/index.html +++ b/index.html @@ -1,767 +1,1348 @@ - - - -Anson 3D - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
+
+
+

Anson 3D

+

+ Aerospace Engineering student with a passion for functional CAD + designs and making his 3D Printer bring them to life. +

+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
+
+
+ +
+ + - - - - - - - + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- -
-
-
-

-Anson 3D -

-

Aerospace Engineering student with a passion for functional CAD designs and making his 3D Printer bring them to life.

-
- -
-
-
-
-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
-
-
- -
- - - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/oldie-vice-v2/index.html b/oldie-vice-v2/index.html index 7580708..2e5feaf 100644 --- a/oldie-vice-v2/index.html +++ b/oldie-vice-v2/index.html @@ -1,20 +1,22 @@ - - - -Oldie Vice V2 - - - - - - - - - - - + + Oldie Vice V2 + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
-
-
- -
-
-
-
-
-
-
- -/ 3D Modeling -
-

Oldie Vice V2

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + 3D Modeling +
+

Oldie Vice V2

+
+
+ Oldie Vice V2 -
-
-
-

Summary

This is the second iteration of a 3D printable Vice made by Machinist Extraordinaire, This Old Tony recently put out a video on a cool vice design that I wanted to recreate. Now This Old Tony is a master of metal, and I just play with plastic. So, making a Vice from plastic that is operational is no easy task, but I think that this version is fully functional and strong enough to hold anything that will fit in its jaws. It is mechanically very simple and relies on a long rod with right-hand threads (clockwise) on one side and left-hand threads (counter-clockwise) on the other side. So, when the shaft is spun it causes the clamps to advance in opposite directions and at the same rate. This mechanism means that your work-piece is always dead center in the vice, and no matter the position of the clamps the vice takes up the same amount of area.

thisOldTony
This Old Tony's Clamp (Or Vice?)

This model was made entirely in Fusion 360 using the This Old Tony Video as a reference. If you watch the video, This Old Tony does a great job explaining how the Vice works and showing off the unique mechanism that allows the Vice to function. My model is not a replica, and is designed from the ground up to be 3D Printed.

Sliced Side View of Vice

What is this Vice?

There are plenty of downsides to a tiny vice made out of plastic(Big surprise I know). However, this vice is perfect for holding small things at your desk. I use mine for soldering and it works great. Working with anything small or delicate this vice will work great, just don't expect to be able to hold a 20 lb piece of steel so you can file it.

Some Assembly Required

This model comes in seven different .stl files.  Assembly is very simple and requires no glue or anything that's not 3D printed unless you choose to use glue on some of the parts for better functionality which I would recommend.

Printed Vice
  1. Thread on both clamps and  Thread each clamp all the way down the thread going in a back and forth motion on any areas that give resistance to make sure it threads smoothly once fully assembled. Try to make sure they are both the same distance from the middle to ensure your clamped workpiece is always centered.
  2. Attach both of the thread ends, the ends can become loose very easily, so its recommended to apply a little glue to make sure it stays but is not necessary. If you glue, it can become impossible to get off later without damaging the thread.
  3. Place assembled thread into the bottom of the base making sure that the clamps are in the grooves of the base. Holding the thread down in the middle of the base with a finger, do a full spin from the jaws being completely closed to completely open to make sure there are no issues with the thread, or bottom of the base and that everything slides smoothly without any snags. Then make sure jaws are spaced the same from the middle and click the top of the base into place locking it into place. Depending on tolerances of your printer the top may have a loose fit, but can easily be glued into place to make it rigid.

Printer Brand: Creality

Printer: Ender 3

Filament: AmazonBasics PLA 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Neon Green

In General

Below I will go into detail into what is recommended to get the best results for each part, but this is a very easy print, and every printer should be able to do the whole thing in about 6 hours for a quick print, but it depends on your infill and how rigid you want the vice to be. This print doesn't require any supports or rafts, but the orientation and layer height is important, and other details are what I will discuss below. The times and material cost are also taking into considering printing that particular .stl alone, but you should be able to print the whole thing at one time.

The assembly should be a very straightforward print, no supports should be necessary, and you shouldn't need any rafts either. Since this is a functional part, the more infill, the better, 20% would probably be the minimum. I also do 5 layers for the top, bottom, and perimeters.

Print Orientation Preview

baseBottom.stl

External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it shouldn't matter.

Super easy print and could easily be printed at .3 mm if you wanted to. This part is really strong and doesn't come under much force ever, but giving it a large amount of bottom layers could add some weight to the print which definitely imporves functionality.

baseTop.stl

External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it shouldn't matter.

Since this print has the tiny prongs anything higher than .2 mmm could make them super brittle. If you plan on gluing the model together, then this doesn't matter.

xxxClamp.stl

Since these have threads, I would print them at a small layer height, but since this thread is so large in diameter, you should be able to get away with a bigger layer height.

thread.stl

The lower the layer height, the better the thread will turn out. The Ender 3 printed correctly at .1 mm even using a cheap filament. Do keep in mind that this only has about 150 mm^2 of area touching the build platform and if you have a printer where the build platform moves for the x-axis or y-axis 10 hours of moving back and forth can quickly knock it loose. So, if you have issues with prints adhering I would use a raft, and to be safe maybe even print the thread separate from the rest of the assembly.

threadEndKnob.stl

This part can do under a ton of stress when tightening the vice so a high number of perimeter layers is definitely recommended.

threadEndRound.stl

This part can do under a ton of stress when tightening the vice so a high number of perimeter layers is definitely recommended. The knurling also comes out really well on layer heights less than .20 mm, but should turn out with any layer height.

Entire Assembly at Once, Single Setting

Build time: 7 hours 28 minutes
Plastic weight: 66 g

Layer Height: .15
External Fill Pattern: Concentric
Infill: 30%

These are the settings to use for printing the entire assembly in under 8 hours. This produced a completely functional vice.

Download

Find this Model on my Thingiverse

Check out this Project on my GitLab

Get the Fusion 360 File

Images

Pictures of the Vice
-
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

-
-
-
-Read More -
-
-
-
-
- -
- -— -
Oldie Vice V2
-
-
Share this - - -
- - - - - - -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- - + + +
+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + — +
Oldie Vice V2
+
+
+ Share this + + + +
+ + + + + + + + + + +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ +
+ + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/oldie-vice/index.html b/oldie-vice/index.html index ec6260e..daeff7d 100644 --- a/oldie-vice/index.html +++ b/oldie-vice/index.html @@ -1,532 +1,1070 @@ - - - -[DEPRECATED] Oldie Vice - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
-
-
- -
-
-
-
-
-
-
- -/ Functional Print -
-

[DEPRECATED] Oldie Vice

-
-
- +
+
+
+ +
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + / + Functional Print +
+

[DEPRECATED] Oldie Vice

+
+
+ [DEPRECATED] Oldie Vice -
-
-
-

Get Version 2 Here

-

Machinist Extraordinaire, This Old Tony recently put out a video on a cool vice design that I wanted to recreate. It is mechanically very simple and relies on a long rod with right-hand threads (clockwise) on one side and left-hand threads (counter-clockwise) on the other side. So, when the shaft is spun it causes the clamps to advance in opposite directions and at the same rate. This mechanism means that your workpiece is always dead center in the vice, and no matter the position of the clamps the vice takes up the same amount of area.

-

thisOldTony

-

This model was made entirely in Fusion 360 using the This Old Tony Video as a reference. If you watch the video, This Old Tony does a great job explaining how the Vice works and showing off the unique mechanism that allows the Vice to function. My model is not a replica, and is designed from the ground up to be 3D Printed.

-

profileView

-

Some Assembly Required

-

This model comes in six different .stl files. The most challenging part about this model is the thread.stl which I go into detail about more later in the documentation. Assembly is very simple and requires no glue or anything that's not 3D printed unless you choose to use glue on some of the parts for better functionality which I would recommend. Below I have the assembly instructions embedded as a .pdf, but If that doesn't load for whatever reason, here is the rundown.

-

CADvsReal

-
    -
  1. -

    Thread on both clamps and Thread each clamp all the way down the thread going in a back and forth motion on any areas that give resistance to make sure it threads smoothly once fully assembled. Try to make sure they are both the same distance from the middle to ensure your clamped workpiece is always centered.

    -
    2. -
  2. -

    Attach both of the thread ends, the ends can become loose very easily, so its recommended to apply a little glue to make sure it stays but is not necessary. If you glue, it can become impossible to get off later without damaging the thread.

    -
    3. -
  3. -

    Place assembled thread into the bottom of the base making sure that the clamps are in the grooves of the base. Holding the thread down in the middle of the base with a finger, do a full spin from the jaws being completely closed to completely open to make sure there are no issues with the thread, or bottom of the base and that everything slides smoothly without any snags. Then make sure jaws are spaced the same from the middle and click the top of the base into place locking it into place. Depending on tolerances of your printer the top may have a loose fit, but can easily be glued into place to make it rigid.

    -
    4. -
- -
-

Print Settings

-

Printer Brand: Creality

-

Printer: Ender 3

-

Filament: RepRapper Red 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm

-

In General

-

This assembly is a very easy print except for the thread. Below I will go into detail into what is recommended to get the best results for each part, but this is a very easy print, and every printer should be able to do the whole thing in about 10 hours. This print doesn't require any supports or rafts, but the orientation and layer height is important, and other details are what I will discuss below. The times and material cost are also taking into considering printing that particular .stl alone, but you should be able to print the whole thing at one time.

-

modelPreview

-

The assembly should be a very straightforward print, no supports should be necessary, and you shouldn't need any rafts either. Since this is a functional part, the more infill, the better, 20% would probably be the minimum. I also do 5 layers for the top, bottom, and perimeters.

-

printPreview

-

printPreview

-

baseBottom.stl

-

Build time: 1 hour 55 minutes
-Filament length: 11384.9 mm
-Plastic weight: 34.23 g (0.08 lb)

-

Layer Height: .2 mm
-External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it shouldn't matter.

-

Super easy print and could easily be printed at .3 mm if you wanted to.

-

baseTop.stl

-

Build time: 0 hours 19 minutes
-Filament length: 1151.6 mm
-Plastic weight: 3.46 g (0.01 lb)

-

Layer Height: .2 mm
-External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it shouldn't matter.
-Infill: 30% Since this is the base of the model giving it more weight would be smart.

-

Since this print has the tiny prongs anything higher than .2 mmm could make them super brittle. If you plan on gluing the model together, then this doesn't matter.

-

xxxClamp.stl

-

(Printing Together)
-Build time: 2 hours 17 minutes
-Filament length: 7945.1 mm
-Plastic weight: 23.89 g (0.05 lb)
-Layer Height: .15 mm

-

Since these have threads, I would print them at a small layer height, but since this thread is so large in diameter, you should be able to get away with a bigger build height.

-

thread.stl

-

Build time: 6 hours 32 minutes
-Filament length: 5549.3 mm
-Plastic weight: 16.68 g (0.04 lb)

-

raft: Your call
-Layer Height: .1 mm
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric
-Infill: 30% +

-

The lower the layer height, the better the thread will turn out. The Ender 3 printed correctly at .1 mm even using a cheap filament. Do keep in mind that this only has about 150 mm^2 of area touching the build platform and if you have a printer where the build platform moves for the x-axis or y-axis 10 hours of moving back and forth can quickly knock it loose. So, if you have issues with prints adhering I would use a raft, and to be safe maybe even print the thread separate from the rest of the assembly.

-

threadTwoEndCapDifficultPrint.stl

-

Build time: 6 hours 32 minutes
-Filament length: 5510.6 mm
-Plastic weight: 16.57 g (0.04 lb)

-

Raft: Yes
-Layer Height: .1
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric
-Infill: 30% +

-

The name makes it pretty clear that this is a problematic print for most prints, you have a long print with a meager 82mm^2 surface area touching the build platform.

-

threadEnd.stl

-

Build time: 0 hours 39 minutes
-Filament length: 939.3 mm
-Plastic weight: 2.82 g (0.01 lb)

-

Layer Height: .1 mm
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric

-

Super simple and quick print. I used a lower layer height since it makes the knurling look better, but since this thread isn't meant to attach more than once, the quality doesn't matter much.

-

Entire Assembly at Once, Single Setting

-

Build time: 9 hours 53 minutes
-Filament length: 27399.0 mm
-Plastic weight: 82.38 g (0.18 lb)

-

Layer Height: .15
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric
-Infill: 30%

-

These are the settings to use for printing the entire assembly in under 10 hours. If you have issues with layer adhesion, I would print the thread.stl separate since it can be quite hard to print.

-

Download

-

Find this Model on my Thingiverse
-Check out this Project on my GitLab
-Check out this Project on my Blog
-Check out this Project on GrabCAD
-Check out this Project on Autodesk Community
-Check out this Project on MyMiniFactory
-Check out this Project on Cults 3D
-Check out this Project on pinshape

-
-
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

-
-
-
-Read More -
-
-
-
-
-
+
+
+

+ Get Version 2 Here +

+

+ Machinist Extraordinaire, + This Old Tony + recently put out a + video on a cool vice design + that I wanted to recreate. It is mechanically very simple and + relies on a long rod with right-hand threads (clockwise) on + one side and left-hand threads (counter-clockwise) on the + other side. So, when the shaft is spun it causes the clamps to + advance in opposite directions and at the same rate. This + mechanism means that your workpiece is always dead center in + the vice, and no matter the position of the clamps the vice + takes up the same amount of area. +

+

+ thisOldTony +

+

+ This model was made entirely in + Fusion 360 using the + This Old Tony Video + as a reference. If you watch the video, This Old Tony does a + great job explaining how the Vice works and showing off the + unique mechanism that allows the Vice to function. My model is + not a replica, and is designed from the ground up to be 3D + Printed. +

+

+ profileView +

+

Some Assembly Required

+

+ This model comes in six different .stl files. The most + challenging part about this model is the thread.stl which I go + into detail about more later in the documentation. Assembly is + very simple and requires no glue or anything that's not 3D + printed unless you choose to use glue on some of the parts for + better functionality which I would recommend. Below I have the + assembly instructions embedded as a .pdf, but If that doesn't + load for whatever reason, here is the rundown. +

+

+ CADvsReal +

+
    +
  1. +

    + Thread on both clamps and Thread each clamp all the way + down the thread going in a back and forth motion on any + areas that give resistance to make sure it threads + smoothly once fully assembled. Try to make sure they are + both the same distance from the middle to ensure your + clamped workpiece is always centered. +

    +
    2. +
  2. +

    + Attach both of the thread ends, the ends can become loose + very easily, so its recommended to apply a little glue to + make sure it stays but is not necessary. If you glue, it + can become impossible to get off later without damaging + the thread. +

    +
    3. +
  3. +

    + Place assembled thread into the bottom of the base making + sure that the clamps are in the grooves of the base. + Holding the thread down in the middle of the base with a + finger, do a full spin from the jaws being completely + closed to completely open to make sure there are no issues + with the thread, or bottom of the base and that everything + slides smoothly without any snags. Then make sure jaws are + spaced the same from the middle and click the top of the + base into place locking it into place. Depending on + tolerances of your printer the top may have a loose fit, + but can easily be glued into place to make it rigid. +

    +
    4. +
+ +
+

Print Settings

+

Printer Brand: Creality

+

Printer: Ender 3

+

+ Filament: + RepRapper Red 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm +

+

In General

+

+ This assembly is a very easy print except for the thread. + Below I will go into detail into what is recommended to get + the best results for each part, but this is a very easy print, + and every printer should be able to do the whole thing in + about 10 hours. This print doesn't require any supports or + rafts, but the orientation and layer height is important, and + other details are what I will discuss below. The times and + material cost are also taking into considering printing that + particular .stl alone, but you should be able to print the + whole thing at one time. +

+

+ modelPreview +

+

+ The assembly should be a very straightforward print, no + supports should be necessary, and you shouldn't need any rafts + either. Since this is a functional part, the more infill, the + better, 20% would probably be the minimum. I also do 5 layers + for the top, bottom, and perimeters. +

+

+ printPreview +

+

+ printPreview +

+

baseBottom.stl

+

+ Build time: 1 hour 55 minutes
+ Filament length: 11384.9 mm
+ Plastic weight: 34.23 g (0.08 lb) +

+

+ Layer Height: .2 mm
+ External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it + shouldn't matter. +

+

+ Super easy print and could easily be printed at .3 mm if you + wanted to. +

+

baseTop.stl

+

+ Build time: 0 hours 19 minutes
+ Filament length: 1151.6 mm
+ Plastic weight: 3.46 g (0.01 lb) +

+

+ Layer Height: .2 mm
+ External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric, but it + shouldn't matter.
+ Infill: 30% Since this is the base of the model giving it more + weight would be smart. +

+

+ Since this print has the tiny prongs anything higher than .2 + mmm could make them super brittle. If you plan on gluing the + model together, then this doesn't matter. +

+

xxxClamp.stl

+

+ (Printing Together)
+ Build time: 2 hours 17 minutes
+ Filament length: 7945.1 mm
+ Plastic weight: 23.89 g (0.05 lb)
+ Layer Height: .15 mm +

+

+ Since these have threads, I would print them at a small layer + height, but since this thread is so large in diameter, you + should be able to get away with a bigger build height. +

+

thread.stl

+

+ Build time: 6 hours 32 minutes
+ Filament length: 5549.3 mm
+ Plastic weight: 16.68 g (0.04 lb) +

+

+ raft: Your call
+ Layer Height: .1 mm
+ External Fill Pattern: Concentric
+ Infill: 30% + +

+

+ The lower the layer height, the better the thread will turn + out. The Ender 3 printed correctly at .1 mm even using a cheap + filament. Do keep in mind that this only has about 150 mm^2 of + area touching the build platform and if you have a printer + where the build platform moves for the x-axis or y-axis 10 + hours of moving back and forth can quickly knock it loose. So, + if you have issues with prints adhering I would use a raft, + and to be safe maybe even print the thread separate from the + rest of the assembly. +

+

+ threadTwoEndCapDifficultPrint.stl +

+

+ Build time: 6 hours 32 minutes
+ Filament length: 5510.6 mm
+ Plastic weight: 16.57 g (0.04 lb) +

+

+ Raft: Yes
+ Layer Height: .1
+ External Fill Pattern: Concentric
+ Infill: 30% + +

+

+ The name makes it pretty clear that this is a problematic + print for most prints, you have a long print with a meager + 82mm^2 surface area touching the build platform. +

+

threadEnd.stl

+

+ Build time: 0 hours 39 minutes
+ Filament length: 939.3 mm
+ Plastic weight: 2.82 g (0.01 lb) +

+

+ Layer Height: .1 mm
+ External Fill Pattern: Concentric +

+

+ Super simple and quick print. I used a lower layer height + since it makes the knurling look better, but since this thread + isn't meant to attach more than once, the quality doesn't + matter much. +

+

+ Entire Assembly at Once, Single Setting +

+

+ Build time: 9 hours 53 minutes
+ Filament length: 27399.0 mm
+ Plastic weight: 82.38 g (0.18 lb) +

+

+ Layer Height: .15
+ External Fill Pattern: Concentric
+ Infill: 30% +

+

+ These are the settings to use for printing the entire assembly + in under 10 hours. If you have issues with layer adhesion, I + would print the thread.stl separate since it can be quite hard + to print. +

+

Download

+

+ Find this Model on my Thingiverse
+ Check out this Project on my GitLab
+ Check out this Project on my Blog
+ Check out this Project on GrabCAD
+ Check out this Project on Autodesk Community
+ Check out this Project on MyMiniFactory
+ Check out this Project on Cults 3D
+ Check out this Project on pinshape +

+
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+
+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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[DEPRECATED] Oldie Vice
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/oldie-wrench/index.html b/oldie-wrench/index.html index aad04bb..437abac 100644 --- a/oldie-wrench/index.html +++ b/oldie-wrench/index.html @@ -1,492 +1,937 @@ - - - -Oldie Wrench - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Oldie Wrench

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+
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+ + / + Functional Print +
+

Oldie Wrench

+
+
+ Oldie Wrench -
-
-
-

Summary

-

Everyones favorite Canadian AvE posted a video about a wrench made by Hand Tool Rescue. I really liked the design and thought it would work great as a 3d printed design for a kind of wrench clamp combo that wouldn't suffer the issues that 3D Printed Crescent Wrenches face. My design definitely isn't as Skookum as the metal one made by Hand Tool Rescue but I have to say its far stronger than you would expect, especially considering I didn't go too gun hoe on the print settings.

-

handleProfile

-

This model was made entirely in Fusion 360. I began with a screencap of the AvE video to get the general outline so it fits nicely in the hand, but everything else is my own design and ideation. The main difference is that mine doesn't have the same pretty slide mechanism where you can see the shaft of the Head go all the way in. This just gives up too much strength and adds complexity to the print so I just enclosed it. The hardest part about designing this model was making a functional thread. Usually when printing threads you go as large as you can, but in this model, that is not really an option due to the fact that it needs to fit in your hand, and be spun with your thumb. In the end, I'm really happy with how it turned out.

-

homeFull

-

Some Assembly Required

-

This model comes in 4 different .stl files. The hardest part about this print is that the thread.stl and nut.stl need a smaller layer height (I would keep these layer heights the same to ensure the threads mesh correctly) and I would recommend a high infill density since these small parts can go under a large amount of force. The other two files print pretty easily and should be fine with 30% to 50% infill but mileage varies with filaments and how heavy you plan to use this tool.

-

Assembly of the parts is easy but does require some super glue or a similar libation. The thread.stl has a hex on one end that should fit nice and snug into a hex on the head.stl. An important step that I would recommend is before gluing I put the thread into the end of my drill and held the nut with a pair of pliers and just slowly worked the thread through. You might have to go back and forth a few times if you have any especially rough parts but this makes it work much better once it has been assembled. I also dripped a little lubricating oil on my threads, this helped make it a bit smoother, but it definitely is not required.

-

Should you run into issues with your supports, it may also be smart to do some sanding on the head before putting it into the handle. It should slide right in without any resistance. If its hard to push in its going to be much harder to pull out!

-

printedAssembled

-

printedUnassembled

-

Print Settings

-

Printer Brand: Creality

-

Printer: Ender 3

-

Filament: ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color

-

Handle

-

Build time: 1 hour 31 minutes
-Filament length: 7571.7 mm
-Plastic weight: 22.76 g (0.05 lb)

-

Supports: No, if your really worried you could put some on the inside, but its a small bridge and the supports would be a pain to remove so I wouldn't bother.
-Layer Height: .2mm
-External Fill Pattern: I liked the look of concentric but it shouldn't matter.

- -

Build time: 0 hours 33 minutes
-Filament length: 3811.6 mm
-Plastic weight: 11.46 g (0.03 lb)

-

Supports: I printed it on its side so the entire shaft that goes into the handle needs supports under it.
-Layer Height: .2

-

headHandlePreview

-

Thread

-

Build time: 1 hour 18 minutes
-Filament length: 538.1 mm
-Plastic weight: 1.62 g (0.00 lb)

-

Supports: No
-Layer Height: .1
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric

-

Make sure to print this with the hex side down on the print bed, this ensures that you get some really nice threads.

-

Nut

-

Build time: 0 hours 49 minutes
-Filament length: 729.4 mm
-Plastic weight: 2.19 g (0.00 lb)

-

Supports: No
-Layer Height: .1
-External Fill Pattern: Concentric

-

Make sure to print this with the flat side down on the print bed, this ensures that you get some really nice threads.

-

threadNutPreview

-

Download

-

Find this Model on my Thingiverse
-Check out this Project on my GitLab
-Check out this Project on my Blog

-

Images

-

banana

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homeRender

-

homeSection

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topRender

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-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

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I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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“Advances in 3D Printing & Modelling” (Euro 3D Printing 2019)

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Focused on establishing a new module to share with the Society the excitement and ideas for the creation and exchange of knowledge and information in the scientific field through our journal, conferences and other means. The conference invites participants from all leading universities, research institutions and leading companies to share their research experiences on all aspects of this rapidly expanding field attracting the audience from Europe, USA, Middle East, Asia Pacific. This time the Conference is schedule in Amsterdam, Netherlands during April 15-16, 2019

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Putting Fusion 360 Models on Facebook

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+ + / + Guide +
+

+ Putting Fusion 360 Models on Facebook +

+
+
+ Putting Fusion 360 Models on Facebook -
-
-
-

One of Fusion 360's most substantial shortcomings is its ability to work with and export other file formats. Facebook recently added support for 3D Models in posts, but they only accept .glb files. The format isn't very widely used in any CAD software yet, so this guides purpose is to walk you through the steps to go from Fusion to Facebook. Below is an example of a 3D post on Facebook.

Orientation

This step isn't essential, but it is most accessible to orient your model before actually exporting it from Fusion 360. Using the view cube in Fusion and clicking Top, then making sure that Y is up and X is to the right is how it will show up in the final export. The Facebook viewer only really lets you rotate the model around the Y-axis so keep that in mind. Example Below.

fusionOrientation
Check your Models Orientation

Export

As I mentioned earlier, I find that Fusion is plagued by a lack of export options which is the whole reason this guide is necessary. However, there is a much more extensive list of export options on the Fusion website. The Fusion 360 website has a ton of interesting features; it even has wiki pages for projects!

https://myhub.autodesk360.com/g/all_projects/active will take you to your dashboard then you have to navigate to your model and open it up, or you can hit the download button straight from the file navigator. Once clicked you're going to be greeted with a long list of export options, almost three times as many as available in Fusion 360 desktop app.

websiteExport
List of Export Options from the Fusion 360 Website

Here is where the guide gets weird. The .obj file export option from the website does not include textures. So, if textures are important to you, then you need to export as an Inventor 2016 format. I understand that not everyone will have access to Inventor and it adds an extra step. So, if your one of those people skip the steps for inventor and just export as .obj and wait for your file to be emailed to you.

Inventor

If your object is more than one body, then you are going to be emailed a zip file with all the part files and an assembly file. Open up the assembly file then go to File > Export > CAD Export.

inventorExport1
Inventor Export Step 1

Then from there select .obj as your file type and press options. Select Custom under resolution and drag the Normal Deviation slider all the way to the right. Doing this ensures your file won't be too large, Facebook prefers smaller files and won't accept files over 3MB. Your final .glb file will be smaller than the .obj so don't worry about it if your .obj is larger than 3MB.

inventorExport2
Inventor Export Step 2

Turning your .obj to a .glb

Once again, there are two different methods to do this. One approach is to open your .obj in Paint 3D then save it as a .glb. I find Paint 3D to be extremely slow at both opening and saving models, and if you're not on Windows 10, then Paint 3D isn't an option for you. So, I use a website that does the conversion. This website may not be around forever, or you might not want to upload your file to a random web server, so you still have the Paint 3D option as well.

Paint 3D

Open Paint 3D then Menu > Open > Browse Files then find your .obj. Once you open the .obj, it will ask if you have a texture file, if you exported from Inventor then select the same folder that your .obj was in, and it will find the texture file for you. Otherwise, you don't have one so press skip. Once the file finishes opening, navigate to Menu > Save As > 3D Model then make sure the file type is .glb.

paintNoTexture
Paint 3D without Textures

glTF Model Converter

https://cesiumjs.org/convertmodel.html is a super simple website and works far faster than Paint 3D for converting to .glb Either drag your files into the grey box, or click the choose files button and find your files. If you exported from Inventor, you would have a .obj and a .mtl which hold the textures, so it is important to upload both to get your texture. Then the file should automatically begin downloading once the server has finished the conversion.

paintTexture
Paint 3D with textures, looks overexposed but turns out fine once exported.

Upload to Facebook

You have to click on the post text area, then drag your .glb file into the box, and it should upload after a second or two. Then you have the option of a few different background colors, and you can still add text like a standard video or photo post.

facebookUpload

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-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Putting Fusion 360 Models on Facebook
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+

+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/rail-mounted-trump/index.html b/rail-mounted-trump/index.html index f7db036..03af65b 100644 --- a/rail-mounted-trump/index.html +++ b/rail-mounted-trump/index.html @@ -1,21 +1,32 @@ - - - -I 3D Printed Trump For My Flamethrower - - - - - - - - - - - - + + I 3D Printed Trump For My Flamethrower + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Rail Mounted Trump

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+
+
+
+ + / + 3D Modeling +
+

Rail Mounted Trump

+
+
+ Rail Mounted Trump -
-
-
-

Summary

-

This part is printed in 2 separate parts, the Donald Trump bust borrowed from ZeroBeatPro, and the rail mounting part designed by me.

-

For the rail, you have two different files to choose from. The first option is a custom size used by this Airsoft gun which is what I used as a case for my flamethrower, I believe the same dimensions work The Boring Company not a Flamethrower. The other included rail uses a standard Picatinny size.

-

I really enjoyed this project because it brought me out of my comfort zone of parametric modeling and made me use Blender to modify the mesh of Trump's head.

-

Print Settings

-

Printer Brand: Creality

-

Printer: Ender 3

-

Rafts: No

-

Supports: Yes

-

Resolution: 0.40 mm

-

Infill: 15%

-

Rail

-

Build time: 1 hour 12 minutes
-Filament length: 5737.7 mm
-Plastic weight: 17.25 g (0.04 lb)

-

The rail I printed on its side with supports on the cylinder. I'd say printing in this orientation is pretty important because you want the layers going vertical so the smaller pieces of the rail attachment are strong as possible because that's definitely the weak point.

-

Rail Print Orientation

-

Trump Bust

-

Build time: 3 hours 48 minutes
-Filament length: 17912.3 mm
-Plastic weight: 53.86 g (0.12 lb)

-

The Trump bust prints perfect without any supports, I used 15% infill but if you think this is going to get knocked around I would bump that number up a smidge.

-

Trump GCode Preview

-

Download

-

Find this Model on my Thingiverse
-Check out this Project on my GitLab

-

Images

-

assemblyPreview1-1

-

bustPreview

-

railPreview

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Rail Mounted Trump
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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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Rail Mounted Trump
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This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/rough-raspberry-pi-model/index.html b/rough-raspberry-pi-model/index.html index 314f6c8..302585a 100644 --- a/rough-raspberry-pi-model/index.html +++ b/rough-raspberry-pi-model/index.html @@ -1,21 +1,32 @@ - - - -Rough Raspberry Pi Model - - - - - - - - - - - - + + Rough Raspberry Pi Model + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Rough Raspberry Pi Model

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+ + / + 3D Modeling +
+

Rough Raspberry Pi Model

+
+
+ Rough Raspberry Pi Model -
-
-
-

Summary

-

A rough, blocky, minimal, but dimensional correct model of a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+. I use this to quickly measure parts of the Pi whenever I'm working on a Pi-related project in CAD. I included the .f3d file which should work best since the model was designed in Fusion, but I also included a .step file for use in every other CAD software, as far as I know, feel free to ask for a different file type.

-

Printing

-

I don't see any reason in printing this but you do you.

-

Download

-

Get this model on my Thingiverse
-Get this Project on my Gitlab

-

Direct Download .stl
-Direct Download .step
-Direct Download .f3d

-

Pictures

-

Dimension-Pi

-

Green-Pi

-

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-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

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I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
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Rough Raspberry Pi Model
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/simple-discord-stock-bot/index.html b/simple-discord-stock-bot/index.html index d2df6c7..bc30b10 100644 --- a/simple-discord-stock-bot/index.html +++ b/simple-discord-stock-bot/index.html @@ -12,14 +12,11 @@ content="Super simple Discord Bot wrote in Python for displaying the price of a stock, or news about a stock quickly and easily." /> - + @@ -30,7 +27,7 @@ /> @@ -76,7 +73,7 @@ "name": "Anson 3D", "logo": { "@type": "ImageObject", - "url": "http://localhost:8080/favicon.png", + "url": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/favicon.png", "width": 60, "height": 60 } @@ -86,20 +83,20 @@ "name": "Anson Biggs", "image": { "@type": "ImageObject", - "url": "http://localhost:8080/content/images/2019/09/anson_suit_cropped.jpg", + "url": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/content/images/2019/09/anson_suit_cropped.jpg", "width": 1513, "height": 1090 }, - "url": "http://localhost:8080/author/anson/", + "url": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/author/anson/", "sameAs": ["http://ansonbiggs.com", "https://twitter.com/Anson_3D"] }, "headline": "Simple Discord Stock Bot", - "url": "http://localhost:8080/simple-discord-stock-bot/", + "url": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/simple-discord-stock-bot/", "datePublished": "2019-06-09T17:00:00.000Z", "dateModified": "2019-06-10T09:58:43.000Z", "image": { "@type": "ImageObject", - "url": "http://localhost:8080/content/images/2019/01/logo.png", + "url": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/content/images/2019/01/logo.png", "width": 500, "height": 500 }, @@ -107,7 +104,7 @@ "description": "Super simple Discord Bot wrote in Python for displaying the price of a stock, or news about a stock quickly and easily.", "mainEntityOfPage": { "@type": "WebPage", - "@id": "http://localhost:8080/" + "@id": "https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/" } } @@ -126,7 +123,7 @@ rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml" title="Anson 3D" - href="http://localhost:8080/rss/" + href="https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/rss/" /> @@ -134,7 +134,7 @@ rel="alternate" type="application/rss+xml" title="Anson 3D" - href="http://localhost:8080/rss/" + href="https://blog.ansonbiggs.com/rss/" /> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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-A fluff post, doesn't contain much, if any technical info, but I think the topic still adds value to the site. -

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+ A fluff post, doesn't contain much, if any technical info, + but I think the topic still adds value to the site. +

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Review

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-Reviews of products I personally use to 3D print and design things in CAD -

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+ Reviews of products I personally use to 3D print and design things + in CAD +

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This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/tag/yet-another-test-suite/index.html b/tag/yet-another-test-suite/index.html index d1a02fe..d969d52 100644 --- a/tag/yet-another-test-suite/index.html +++ b/tag/yet-another-test-suite/index.html @@ -1,330 +1,605 @@ - - - -Yet Another Test Suite - Anson 3D - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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Yet Another Test Suite

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-Also known as YATS, this is the test suite I am working on to quickly and cheaply calibrate your 3D Printer in a number of ways. -

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Yet Another Test Suite

+

+ Also known as YATS, this is the test suite I am working on to + quickly and cheaply calibrate your 3D Printer in a number of ways. +

+
+
+
+
+
+
+ + + + +
+
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This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/tags/index.html b/tags/index.html index e50cea9..9d817e5 100644 --- a/tags/index.html +++ b/tags/index.html @@ -1,234 +1,414 @@ - - - -Tags - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Where to Download My Models

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GitLab

-

This is the main repository that I work out of for my models. I work out of this repository so there are usually plenty of changes happening at any time. There are also files that I use to keep track of the progress and what sites I've posted on so you'll have to dig through those to get what you need.

-

I do my best to keep this neat, but if you catch a project in the middle of development its bound to be a mess. Surprisingly enough GitLab also has the functionality to preview a model in a browser as well, and it works way faster than any other embedding of a 3D model that I've seen.

-

Thingiverse

-

Thingiverse is by far the best community to share files with. It is not only the largest, but it also has the best tools and is easiest to upload to thanks to it supporting markdown for posts.

-

Thingiverse also has fantastic search and tagging tools so it's pretty easy to find something new while you are checking out my files.

-

GrabCAD

-

GrabCAD doesn't seem to be a very 3D printing oriented community, they seem to keep things more professional and engineering. Regardless, I throw all my models on there because I like the site.

-

MyMiniFactory

-

MyMiniFactory only accepts 3D printable models, and you even have to prove its printable before it gets shared with the community, but the community seems pretty small. I still upload here but since I don't get many views I don't put much effort into the posts, I would recommend just going to my Thingiverse.

-

Autodesk Community

-

I post here just because I think its super professional place, and that's kinda the reason I'm doing all of this. That being said, my models get almost zero views here.

-

Cults

-

Pretty small site but they retweet all my posts on twitter when I tag them about a new post to their site which is a nice little incentive to post there.

- -
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+
+

Where to Download My Models

+
+
+
+

+ GitLab +

+

+ This is the main repository that I work out of for my models. + I work out of this repository so there are usually plenty of + changes happening at any time. There are also files that I use + to keep track of the progress and what sites I've posted on so + you'll have to dig through those to get what you need. +

+

+ I do my best to keep this neat, but if you catch a project in + the middle of development its bound to be a mess. Surprisingly + enough GitLab also has the functionality to preview a model in + a browser as well, and it works way faster than any other + embedding of a 3D model that I've seen. +

+

+ Thingiverse +

+

+ Thingiverse is by far the best community to share files with. + It is not only the largest, but it also has the best tools and + is easiest to upload to thanks to it supporting markdown for + posts. +

+

+ Thingiverse also has fantastic search and tagging tools so + it's pretty easy to find something new while you are checking + out my files. +

+

+ GrabCAD +

+

+ GrabCAD doesn't seem to be a very 3D printing oriented + community, they seem to keep things more professional and + engineering. Regardless, I throw all my models on there + because I like the site. +

+

+ MyMiniFactory +

+

+ MyMiniFactory only accepts 3D printable models, and you even + have to prove its printable before it gets shared with the + community, but the community seems pretty small. I still + upload here but since I don't get many views I don't put much + effort into the posts, I would recommend just going to my + Thingiverse. +

+

+ Autodesk Community +

+

+ I post here just because I think its super professional place, + and that's kinda the reason I'm doing all of this. That being + said, my models get almost zero views here. +

+

+ Cults +

+

+ Pretty small site but they retweet all my posts on twitter + when I tag them about a new post to their site which is a nice + little incentive to post there. +

+
+
+
+
+
+ +
+ + + + + + + + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/why-3d-printed-guns-arent-an-issue/index.html b/why-3d-printed-guns-arent-an-issue/index.html index 99af27d..80885c6 100644 --- a/why-3d-printed-guns-arent-an-issue/index.html +++ b/why-3d-printed-guns-arent-an-issue/index.html @@ -1,443 +1,836 @@ - - - -Why 3D Printed Guns Aren't an Issue - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Why 3D Printed Guns Aren't an Issue

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+ Why 3D Printed Guns Aren't an Issue +

+
+
+ Why 3D Printed Guns Aren't an Issue -
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-
-

There are many great points in this debate both for and against allowing the 3D models of weapons that can be printed to be widely distributed, and whether or not it is legal to sell the prints. You can easily argue that 3D printers are in enough schools and libraries that their proximity to children and other areas of education mean that turning a 3D printer into a foundry for weapons is a very scary thought to most people. On the other hand, you can argue that the government barring people from sharing files is a massive infringement of first amendment rights.

-

3dp_guns_liberator-museum-gun

-

The reason that I think the idea of 3D printing weapons has no bearing in the current mayhem that is the second amendment debate is that the technology isn't capable, and we are very far away from it making sense. 3D Printers, especially the models that potential criminals could get their hands on, are far from suitable for this kind of 3D Printing.

-

There is no such thing as a 3D Printed object that can kill someone straight off the print bed, or even if it requires assembly it would still require a bullet. I have yet to see a 3D Print that has a mechanism to cause someone hard that doesn't use a bullet. (Although I haven't really been looking.) This is pretty much a deal breaker for anyone trying to commit murder by filament. Let's just make our argument even worse. Let's say that you went out and bought ammo, then assembled your gun. Guns are marvels of engineering and materials science. Even by today's standards making a gun that can shoot more than a handful of times, and accurately is hard even with proper materials. PLA, ABS, or Nylon does not come anywhere close to the proper material for the job. 3D printed weapons at best make a small projectile go in a general direction. At worst they blow up in the operators face. As far as a printed AR-15 or a similar genuine weapon that tends to make its rounds on media every now and then, those weapons are far beyond the capability of any modern, or next generation printer.

-

3dPrintedGun

-

It is also important to note that weapons explicitly designed to be 3D printed tend to look like toys. This is important because a large majority of gun crimes are robberies or other forms of intimidation which 3D printed weapons would not be effective at. While it can be argued that the inexpensive nature, about $15 a print from what I can tell, of 3D printing would greatly lower the barrier of entry of getting a gun I disagree. Access to a 3D printer is still very limited in the USA, and by the time someone buys a new printer, learns to set it up, and prints a weapon. They could have easily just bought a gun or stole one which is the most common way criminals get weapons. Sure, in countries like Australia where guns are mostly banned there is a considerably greater incentive for a criminal to print a weapon, but if they're already at that level of criminal I'd argue they have access to weapons already.

-

That's just my take. At this time there have been zero crimes committed with a 3D printed weapon that I am aware of, and while I do think seeing the future is important and could save time, lives, and money in the future. I do not believe this is an issue we should be worrying about.

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

+

+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
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+ Why 3D Printed Guns Aren't an Issue +
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- -/ Yet Another Test Suite -
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Yet Another Test Suite: Bridging Test

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+ + / + Yet Another Test Suite +
+

+ Yet Another Test Suite: Bridging Test +

+
+
+ Yet Another Test Suite: Bridging Test -
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-
-

This is the beginning of a larger suite of test prints I am developing that can be used to calibrate your 3D printer cheaply, and quickly.

-

Summary

-

The two major factors that come into play when printing a good bridge are Temperature and Print Speed. The lower both of these respective values are the better your bridges are likely to succeed. The goal of this project is that its a test that prints very fast, the full test should print in under 45 minutes.

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This model is fully parameterized if you have Inventor.

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Contents

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This project contains two .stl files that are ready to be sliced and printed. bridgeTest.stl is a complete test with 4 different lengths. oneBridge.stl contains only the longest of the bridges at 25mm. The other files is bridgeTest.ipt this is a parameterized inventor file for changing the parameters of the test for anyone who wishes to do that, but I think the default setup is good.

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Goals of This Print

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This print is designed to be fast to help you troubleshoot any issues your printer may encounter as your bridges increase in length. By default, the bridge spans are 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, and 25 mm. Another thing to note concerning this print is by default the bridge is 3mm above the print bed. In most cases, I think this is enough to avoid heat coming off your print bed to affect the bridge quality but your results may vary and it is something to consider.

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From what I've seen, horizontal bridges will never quite match the quality of a normal print operation, but you can get pretty close. You will always have very defined lines, but if done correctly these should be connected to the print pretty well and shouldn't be an issue outside of being a slight eyesore on some prints.

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Speed

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If your speed is off it will be very obvious. Over extrusion is going to mean that you have a bridge that may sag lower than it should, meaning any layers above it aren't going to have anything to support them which will cause structural and visual issues above the bridge for a few layers before your printer hopefully recovers.

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The other issue is under extrusion which in a worst case scenario means your bridge will break in the middle of the process leading to a huge mess under the bridge and may cause even more issues than over extrusion.

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Temperature

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The key element in bridging is that your cooling melted plastic in place while it is suspended in the air. This means its important to make sure your temperature isn't higher than its required to be, and that your print head fans are running at full to ensure the filament hardens as quickly as possible once it leaves the print head.

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Good Bridging

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Example of Good 3D Printing Bridging

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Poor Bridging

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Example of Poor 3D Printing Bridging

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Print Settings

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Rafts

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I didn't use any, but if you're having issues with the print not sticking since it does have a very small surface area on the bed, or if your having an issue with the bed giving off too much heat I would imagine that a raft would help.

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Supports

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Definitely defeats the purpose of this print unless you're testing your support settings.

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Resolution

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0.40 mm

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Infill

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I would do something low like 10%-15%, more importantly, I would do 3+ exterior shells to ensure you are seeing how the bridge works with more layers on it.

-

Download

-

View this Project on my Thingiverse

-

View this Project on my GitLab

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Yet Another Test Suite: Bridging Test
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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/yet-another-test-suite-overhang-test/index.html b/yet-another-test-suite-overhang-test/index.html index ccf2314..e246734 100644 --- a/yet-another-test-suite-overhang-test/index.html +++ b/yet-another-test-suite-overhang-test/index.html @@ -1,493 +1,941 @@ - - - -Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test - - - - - - - - - - - - + + Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test

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+ + / + Yet Another Test Suite +
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+ Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test +

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+ Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test -
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-
-

This is the beginning of a larger suite of test prints I am developing that can be used to calibrate your 3D printer cheaply, and quickly.

-

Find a full write up and other tests on my blog

-

Summary

-

No one likes using supports so it is essential to know the limitations of your printer so you can use a minimal amount of support and still get great looking models. This model tests 3 different kinds of overhangs in one. It tests concave, convex, and flat surfaces so you can see how your printer is able to do each one. Generally, concave overhangs print better than convex so this print is great for visualizing this. The idea behind this is that printing outside of parametric models usually has very weird shapes which normal flat tests don't test for.

-

This model is fully parameterized if you have Inventor.

- -

Project Contents

-

This project contains a .stl and a .ipt Inventor file. By default, the .stl is pretty small and should be printable in under 45 minutes. If you want to print it larger to make any issues more prevalent then you should easily be able to scale the model in your slicer without any issues. The model also has a small notch on the back at the 50-degree mark, this is so it's easy to tell when your at this point because this is where most printers begin running into issues with overhangs.

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inventorPreview-1
-modelProfile

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Preview of the file in Inventor

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Goals of This Print

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This print is designed to be small, fast, and easily readable to make it easy as possible for you to troubleshoot overhang issues. If you're having extreme overhang issues I would recommend starting with my Bridge Test. Bridging and Overhangs are highly correlated, but getting beautiful overhangs takes more fine tuning than successful bridges.

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This test is a profile with 2 arcs and a flat surface that is lofted up at increasing angles until you end up parallel with the ground. The reasonable expectation of any printer is that it is able to print perfectly until about 45 to 50 degrees before it runs into issues. The model has a small notch on the back to indicate when you go to 50 degrees, so if you have any issues before this point then your issue isn't Overhang, its something else that I probably have a guide on. Its hard to capture in pictures with my black filament, but the changes in degrees are pretty easy to see with the print in your hands. each change is 10 degrees down until you get to zero (parallel with the ground).

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underView1

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You can see the print having worse issues as the print angle gets more agressive

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Eliminating Overhangs

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It is important to note that for most prints the best way to fix overhangs is to not have them at all. Usually rotating a model, or adding a chamfer or fillet can decrease an angle making your print easier for your printer, while saving filament, and in some cases actually making your print stronger.

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Speed

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Slowing your printer down means that the filament has more time to cool down where it was placed, and not drag or fall. Printers can have vastly different speeds so it's important to search online for numbers that make sense for you, then slowly change them from there.

-

Temperature

-

Overhangs print more and more material over thin air as the angle decreases. This means its important to make sure your temperature isn't higher than its required to be, and that your print head fans are running at full to ensure the filament hardens as quickly as possible once it leaves the print head.

-
-

Print Settings

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Rafts

-

This print should be just fine without a raft. If you are having problems with the print not sticking to the bed then I would look up guides on troubleshooting that.

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Resolution

-

Whatever you usually print at. Smaller layer height should make overhangs turn out better.

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Infill

-

At the default size you shouldn't need any infill, but if you scale it up then I would recommend using your normal infill for prints just to keep as many variables the same as you can. I generally stick to around 15%

-

Download

-

View this Project on my Thingiverse

-

View this Project on my GitLab

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Yet Another Test Suite: Overhang Test
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+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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+ Read More +
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/yet-another-test-suite-stringing-test/index.html b/yet-another-test-suite-stringing-test/index.html index afd5a98..017cd69 100644 --- a/yet-another-test-suite-stringing-test/index.html +++ b/yet-another-test-suite-stringing-test/index.html @@ -1,22 +1,36 @@ - - - -Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test - - - - - - - - - - - - + + Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test

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+ + / + Yet Another Test Suite +
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+ Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test +

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+ Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test -
-
-
-

Go to My full list of 3D Printing Troubleshooting Guides

-

This is the beginning of a larger suite of test prints I am developing that can be used to calibrate your 3D printer cheaply, and quickly.

-

Summary

-

Stringing, also often referred to as Oozing, is when a print has small hairs or in extreme cases thick lines of the filament in between the outside perimeter of two print locations. Luckily cleanup for Stringing is generally pretty simple as long as the stringing isn't extreme. If you are unfortunate enough to have extreme stringing, then this guide and the included test print should get you up and running in no time.

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This model is fully parameterized if you have Inventor.

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Inventor-Preview

-

Preview of model in Inventor

-

Contents

-

This project contains a .stl file that has 3 Cones in a line. They are set up so that they test every length from 0mm to 15mm by default. There is also a .ipt file if you have Inventor and would like to make modifications to this. This model only uses one parameter, the longest distance you want stringing to be tested at and it automagically does the rest for you.

-

Goals of This Print

-

The two major factors affecting stringing are Retraction and Temperature. Too high of a Temperature would cause a host of other issues in your prints so if you are mainly just experiencing stringing then Retraction is probably your issue. The included .stl tests stringing from 0mm to 15mm by default. Small strings often referred to as hairs are very common at small distances and are very easy to clean up after the print has finished. If stringing is prominent on the longer distances then I would look into the troubleshooting steps.

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Minimal-Stringing

-

Example of Good Stringing

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Poor-Stringing

-

Example of Poor Stringing

-

Retraction

-

Most every slicer has this ability, and thankfully this is more than likely your issue if stringing is an issue. Retraction causes your printer to pull some filament back when moving the print head in between parts of your print. The two parameters for this setting are Distance and Speed. Distance is how much filament gets pulled back, and speed is how fast it pulls it back. Mileage varies greatly by the printer so it's important to search online for some good baseline values to get started. The values I use for my Ender 3 are 6.20mm Retraction Distance, and 5100mm/min Retraction Speed. It is important that you do not set either of these values too crazy high because you can strip your filament causing it to not feed to your extruder.

-

Temperature

-

If stringing is your only print issue, then your temperature is probably fine.

-

Too high of a temperature can make your filament really thin meaning it can come out the extruder tip just from a little gravity. This is pretty easily fixed by dropping your extruder temperature by 5ish degrees C.

-

Clean-Up

-

Small amounts of stringing are perfectly fine and extremely easy to clean up after a print has finished. If there are only a few hairs I've had good luck with just rubbing them off with my finger, or if you have a large amount then using a heat gun or hair dryer usually melts them away pretty quickly. Superfine sandpaper works great as well.

-

Larger strings should be easy to fix with the above steps, but if you do end up with one then clipping them off with a pair of small diagonal wire cutters or worst case some fingernail clippers. Anything that can cut close to the walls of the print will work great.

-

Print Settings

-

This model shouldn't require rafts or infill, but it may be beneficial to print it at your normal printing settings to be 100% sure everything is operating as it should.

-

Download

-

Get this File on my Thingiverse

-

Get this File on my GitLab

- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

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Yet Another Test Suite: Stringing Test
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+

+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

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+ Read More +
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + + diff --git a/yet-another-test-suite/index.html b/yet-another-test-suite/index.html index 4af34c5..5c60b2e 100644 --- a/yet-another-test-suite/index.html +++ b/yet-another-test-suite/index.html @@ -1,21 +1,32 @@ - - - -Yet Another Test Suite - - - - - - - - - - - - + + Yet Another Test Suite + + + + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + + + + + + + + + + + + - - gtag('config', 'UA-99766784-3'); - + + - - - - -
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Yet Another Test Suite

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Yet Another Test Suite

+
+
+ Yet Another Test Suite -
-
-
-

Yet Another Test Suite is a suite of tests for calibrating your 3D Printer. The goal of this specific suite of tests is that they are easy to read, quick to print, and cheap. This page is made to act as a directory for finding all of my tests in one place.

-
-

Table Of Contents

-

Bridge Test

-

Stringing Test

-

Overhang Test

-

Sharp Corner Test [- In Progress -]

-

Tolerance Test [- In Progress -]

-

Screw Test [- In Progress -]

-
-

Bridge Test

-

An example of poor 3D Printed Bridging

-

The two major factors that come into play when printing a good bridge are Temperature and Print Speed. The lower both of these respective values are the better your bridges are likely to succeed. The goal of this project is that its a test that prints very fast, the full test should print in under 45 minutes.

-

This model is fully parameterized if you have Inventor.

-

Continued

-

View the full writeup On my Blog

-

View this Project on my Thingiverse

-

View this Project on my GitLab

-
-

Stringing Test

-

Poor-vs-Good-Stringing

-

The two major factors affecting stringing are Retraction and Temperature. Too high of a Temperature would cause a host of other issues in your prints so if you are mainly just experiencing stringing then Retraction is probably your issue. The included .stl tests stringing from 0mm to 15mm by default. Small strings often referred to as hairs are very common at small distances and are very easy to clean up after the print has finished. If stringing is prominent on the longer distances then I would look into the troubleshooting steps.

-

Continued

-

View the full writeup On my Blog

-

View this Project on my Thingiverse

-

View this Project on my GitLab

-
-

Overhang Test

-

underView1

-

No one likes using supports so it is essential to know the limitations of your printer so you can use a minimal amount of support and still get great looking models. This model tests 3 different kinds of overhangs in one. It tests concave, convex, and flat surfaces so you can see how your printer is able to do each one. Generally, concave overhangs print better than convex so this print is great for visualizing this. The idea behind this is that printing outside of parametric models usually has very weird shapes which normal flat tests don't test for.

-

Continued

-

View the full writeup On my Blog

-

View this Project on my Thingiverse

-

View this Project on my GitLab

-
- -
-
- -
-
-Anson Biggs -
-

Anson Biggs

-

I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Prescott, Arizona. -

-
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-Read More -
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Yet Another Test Suite
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+ Anson Biggs +
+

+ Anson Biggs +

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+ I am an undergraduate Aerospace Engineering student with a + focus on Astronautics and a minor in Electronic Engineering + studying at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in + Prescott, Arizona. +

+
+
+
+ Read More +
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Yet Another Test Suite
+
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+ + - + + + - - - - - -Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. - + + Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a + Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. + +